Is your Ecoboost Tune on point? Here’s what to look for

We’ve had the opportunity to tune thousands of Ecoboost vehicles over the years and have developed a thorough understanding of the ECU and how it controls the engine. We also analyze A LOT of data from cars all over the world in all kinds of different configurations. Data analysis is a very important part of tuning the vehicle and making sure it is behaving and driving optimally.

As we refine and dial in the tunes, there are some key characteristics in the collected datalogs that indicate that the tune is well adjusted to the vehicle. In this article we go over tuning parameters you can check yourself by analyzing the logs from your own car.

The example vehicle used in this case is a Focus RS with an upgraded FMIC and catback and running 93 octane fuel. These key elements discussed in this article however apply to any Ecoboost powered car.

First things first – you have to valid data. Here are the parameters that we recommend datalogging for this exercise using your COBB Accessport (and here is how you set these up):

focus-rs-st-datalog-parameters-cobb-accessport

After you’ve setup your Accessport to datalog the correct parameters, it’s time to take some datalogs. There are two types of logs that we like to see because they highlight different aspects of how the engine is responding.

The first is a single, full gear pull. This can be done in 3rd or 4th gear. 4th gear will load the engine more and we prefer seeing this data ONLY if safe or possible. Press the logging button on the AP and wait for the numbers to start updating again on the screen. After this punch the throttle to the floor at 2500RPM and hold it there until the tach needle reaches the indicated redline.

The second type of pull is a multi gear pull. This is a demanding pull and it stress tests the tune and how it responds to fast changes. Good tunes behave predictably as you go through the gears. Here you start in 2nd and finish in 3rd (or 4th if safe). You once again punch the throttle and quick shift into the next gear near redline. No need to FFS, a fast shift is enough.

After the data is collected using a graphic software of your choice (Excel, Open Office, etc) to visually represent the data. Let’s start with the single gear pull.

FUEL  

Correct fueling is essential for performance and reliability. These cars come with full time closed loop wideband control. That means that the ECU will try and achieve the fuel targets in the tune at all times using the OEM wideband sensor.

How much fuel to inject is primarily calculated based on the manifold pressure sensor (MAP) as there is no MAF sensor on these vehicles. Deviations from safe fuel targets means that either the tune is not dialed in, fuel system can’t supply the needed fuel, or the wideband sensor is not working properly. The charts below show you what to look for in a single gear pull datalog.focus-rs-st-fuel-pressuresfocus-rs-st-air-fuel-ratios

BOOST CONTROL

A turbocharged car with poor boost control is both unpleasant and unpredictable to drive as well as unsafe for the engine. The Ecoboost controls torque and boost control via the wastegate and throttle. The wastegate is used to spool the turbo and adjust the turbo speed and boost level in the charge air system. The throttle is used to finely adjust and trim boost without having to slow down the turbo. This makes for a very responsive system when dialed in correctly.

focus-rs-st-boost-control

KNOCK CONTROL

The Ecoboost has a very responsive knock control system. It listens for knock at all times and reduces timing when it picks up knock-like noise. At WOT, it will add timing until it reaches the knock limit and also LEARN the octane quality via the OAR parameter. This is a very powerful system and if tuned well can exploit the full performance of the vehicle on the fuel it is using while keeping the engine safe from excessive knock. More about knock here.focus-rs-st-knock-control

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER – THE MULTI GEAR PULL

Stress testing a tune is very important. This will tell you whether the tune is setup to take on daily driving tasks as well as track conditions. We don’t drive our cars in steady state WOT, we drive them in transient conditions (coming on and off the throttle at different RPMs all the time). Single gear pulls/sweeps don’t expose these areas and they are easy to miss especially if the tune is only done on a dyno.

If there are weaknesses in the tune you are likely to find them in a multi gear pull. Here’s what to look for in a multi gear pull above and beyond the single gear behavior found above.
focus-rs-st-multi-gear-pull
Feel free to contact us with any questions, and enjoy data analysis and making sure your tune is on point!

The Stratified Team

Focus RS Turboback Exhaust Results

With turbocharged cars, there are a few proven recipes to making power. One such recipe is to free up the exhaust. This does 2 things: It reduces pumping losses from the engine and it reduces the post-turbo exhaust pressure. This improves the turbine efficiency giving it the ability to spin the turbo faster and make more boost, faster. That means more power and a faster spool.

Back in the day, the engine controls and ECU were not fast or advanced enough to adapt to hardware changes made to the engine such as upgrading the exhaust. This combined with very restrictive emissions components (catalytic converters) and small diameter piping meant that throwing on a turboback exhaust resulted in big changes in boost pressures as well as power levels. Often, the turbos experienced boost creep and uncontrollable boost that led to cars running lean and damaging motors.

With modern cars things have changed quite a bit. First of all, the engine controls are a lot more sophisticated and faster acting. Boost and torque levels as well as fueling are monitored and targeted very closely by the ECU and tune. The exhaust systems are much better these days as well. Ford was able to extract 350hp from a 2.3 litre engine in factory trim and that means the exhaust system is a far cry from what was found on the turbo cars of the 1990s.

In order to extract performance from a modern turbo car you absolutely have to address the tune first and foremost. Without adjusting the ECU tune to enable the higher performance, adding flow hardware will have minimal effects on performance. Once the tune is on point, in a relentless pursuit for more horsepower we looked to the aftermarket to see what can be done with the exhaust system on the car.

The Focus RS has a single catalytic converter in the downpipe right after the turbo followed by a catback exhaust that is free flowing enough to add a nice burble with pops and bangs for good measure. The stock system diameter is 2.75″ which is an adequate diameter for stock power levels. 
focus-rs-exhaust-oemWe started with a car that is bone stock and developed a Stratified tune built for 93 octane fuel. The tune maximizes what can be done on the stock hardware with the local 93 fuel. The vehicle was loaded on the dyno by our friends at Custom Performance Engineering with just the tune for a baseline. Below are the results on a Mustang dynamometer comparing stock (red), COBB OTS tune (green), and the Stratified custom tune (blue). It should be noted that this dyno is setup to mimic the acceleration of the car on the actual road very well. The airflow over the charge air cooler is not quite what we would see on the street but the car is loaded correctly to mimic a 4th gear run on the road. Because of this we were able to use data collected via the COBB Accessport very accurately.

focus-rs-tune-dyno

Once the baseline was established, the first part added to the car is a beautifully built full 3″ exhaust system made by the good people at Custom Performance Engineering. The car was loaded on the dyno for another set of runs. We used data from the Accessport collected on the dyno and the Virtual Dyno software for the next comparison.

focus-rs-catback-dyno

In this case, while maintaining the same torque targets in the tune the car made an additional ~20whp, ~18wtq. Analyzing the acceleration data further, you can see how with a catback exhaust the car gets to redline around 0.6 seconds quicker.

focus-rs-catback-dyno-acceleration

The torque targets, timing, charge air temperatures, and fueling were the same between these runs. However fuel trims tell us a little bit more about what is going on. They indicated that the ECU had to add 1-2% more fuel to achieve the same air fuel ratios with the catback versus the bone stock car. This means the catback actually improved the volumetric efficiency of the engine. This means more air was entering the cylinders and producing more power. This, along with a drop in pumping losses accounts for the performance gains. We were pleasantly surprised to see this much of a difference from the catback exhaust but it was consistent across multiple runs.

The next part installed was an off-road catless downpipe replacing the OEM catalytic converter and downpipe. Again, keeping the same tune, multiple runs were made with the car and we found negligible differences in performance versus the stock downpipe with the aftermarket catback.

focus-rs-turboback-dyno

In this case from the exhaust standpoint we seemed to have reached the point of diminishing returns from a flow and pumping loss standpoint. Good job Ford on a well flowing downpipe! But wait … there is more to this. On closer analysis of the data, it’s evident that the wastegate is telling us of some gains achieved from the downpipe. The average wastegate duty cycle after the downpipe install during the entire run was 10% lower than with just a catback. You can visually see this difference especially near the end of the run.focus-rs-turboback-exhaust-wastegate-and-boost-stratified

This means that there is a larger pressure differential across the turbine. This in turn means that should we want to, we CAN run more boost, especially in the top end and make more power. The ECU is controlling the wastegate very precisely to hit the targets in the tune, but we can then adjust the tune for more boost.

So why didn’t we? The reason is because we are at the knock limit of this fuel especially given the OEM intercooler still being installed. Running more boost would only result in knock, an unhappy engine, and no power gained. We will be back for more with a larger intercooler and higher octane fuel.

So what have we learned here? We’ve seen that a catback exhaust results in a power gain from a volumetric efficiency and pumping loss decrease standpoint. We’ve also seen that while a downpipe did not result in more power, it does enable us to run more boost if the charge air cooling and fuel octane support it. In other words it enables more power with more supporting modifications.

Finally, we learned how precisely the ECU controls the engine in this vehicle and how important it is to have the tune on point in order to extract additional performance from your RS.

EDIT: In the initial test we installed the catback first and downpipe SECOND. We did the reverse with our development Focus RS.

focus-rs-downpipe-stratified

We left the stock catback in place and replaced the OEM downpipe with a catted CPE downpipe. We saw similar gains to what we saw when we replaced the catback.

Reason for this: the engine gained power from less back pressure and a reduction of pumping losses. This has diminishing returns when both a downpipe and catback are installed. However the initial improvements are there whether this is done via the downpipe OR the catback. Below is a chart showing what was gained with the downpipe on the same tune (RED), versus a stock exhaust system with just a tune (GREEN) and an OEM RS with an OEM tune (BLUE). This is a different car from the one in the rest of the article and using 91 octane fuel with only other hardware modification being an intake air filter.

downpipe-vdyno-again

And below is a short video during the downpipe install

Thank you to the team at Custom Performance Engineering for the excellent data collection and quality parts!

Detecting WMI failure using fuel trims

Turbochargers like high octane and a cold intake charge. Using a water-methanol injection system (WMI) to fulfill that need is effective in terms of results as well as costs (especially if high octane fuel like E85 is not readily available). These injection systems were used in aircraft before World War II and more recently even BMW implemented a system in their M4 GTS. The results speak for themselves – more reliable power!

A Virtual Dyno comparison before and after the WMI system was installed.

 

The issue with these systems (and any system) is that they can fail, leak, or get clogged. To maintain reliability we need to be able to detect this. There are several ways to go about failure detection. One is to purchase a system with a failsafe while another is to look at temperature differences in the charge air. However some cars (such as the Ecoboost engines) have the charge air temperature sensor BEFORE the injection nozzle (at the intercooler outlet). Unfortunately due to this sensor placement, it will not pick up the difference in temperatures brought on by the WMI spray.

For these vehicles we have another indicator as to whether or not WMI is indeed working. Methanol is combustible. This means that if you inject it, it will affect total fueling entering the engine. The Ecoboost has a sensitive wideband oxygen sensor and it adjusts fueling in real time under wide open throttle (when WMI is also spraying).

This means that you can datalog or monitor your short term fuel trims (STFT) to see if WMI is injecting when it’s supposed to under boost. First you must establish a baseline and check that the system works. Before you turn your WMI system on, take a WOT datalog and make note of your STFTs under boost with WMI off.

stratified-wmi-not-spraying

In the graph above you will see that the STFT settles between positive +5 to +10%. This means the ECU is detecting that it should inject 5-10% extra fuel to meet the fuel targets in the tune. In similar temperatures and without adjusting boost, turn the WMI system on and take another datalog.

stratified-wmi-spraying

You can see that now at the same boost pressure and with WMI injecting the STFT reading has dropped to -5%. This means that WMI is contributing to around 10-15% of the total fueling on this particular car and setup and the ECU is now taking away 5% of the fuel instead of adding 5-10%. Excellent, now you have verified that the WMI system works and have seen its effects on fuel trims. This is your new baseline for fuel trims with the WMI system working.

If the system were to fail, you will see not just additional knock, but also a shift of the STFTs towards positive territory as that extra fuel is no longer supplied.

Keep in mind that engine part changes, WMI nozzle changes, different temperatures, changes in boost pressure, and fueling system changes overall (including the fuel used) will affect the fuel trims in varying degrees. However if you often monitor your car you will have a good idea where the STFT trims sit under WOT with WMI working. If you see a sudden positive shift in those trims accompanied by knock under steady wide open throttle and boost, you should inspect that your water-methanol system is leak free and still delivering the liquid to the engine.

Keeping things fueled and cool,

The Stratified Team

Upgrading the Volkswagen GTI FMIC

I will preface this with the fact that the OEM front mount intercooler (FMIC) on the VW GTI is very good for an OEM unit. Here’s a little comparison between the MK6 GTI and the OEM unit on a MK3 Focus ST. vw-gti-vs-focus-st-intercooler-efficiencyWhen you are looking at the performance of an intercooler you want to look at the difference in temperature between the beginning and end of a wide open throttle run. This change in temperature will tell you whether the FMIC is maintaining a cold air charge or whether it is struggling. The OEM Focus ST FMIC in this case is clearly struggling in comparison to the GTI and this comes down to the size. The GTI/Golf R FMIC is very large by comparison – having the same frontal area as the radiator!

Our COBB Tuned development GTI received its final piece to being fully bolted with the F23T turbo. The Golf R FMIC. The install is quite straightforward. There are a lot of screws to take out of the front end to get to the FMIC (bumper and crash bar must come out) as it is between the AC condenser and radiator so if you DIY this install make sure you keep track of these. Having a second pair of hands and a couple of floor jacks to support the cooling stack as you take out and put in the FMIC helps.

golf-gti-fmic-install

I really do like the design of the cooling stack. Lots of airflow in the front end of this car. The R FMIC has a core that is 5mm thicker and it has 31 rows versus the GTI 27 rows.

golf-gti-fmic-oem-thicknessgolf-r-fmic-thickness

Some data comparisons indicate that on a 4th gear pull the change in temperature from the beginning to the end has dropped from 17.5* F to 9.5* F with the R FMIC. A second advantage to the better flowing and larger R FMIC is a smaller pressure drop across its core. Due to the lower pressure drop and lower temperatures, at the same boost pressure the turbo is more efficient and we also gained around 4-5 g/s of airflow.

vw-golf-r-vs-vw-gti-intercooler-fmic-efficiency

I do recommend this upgrade for stock and upgraded turbos alike. The GTI FMIC is quite good but the R FMIC is a direct fit, relatively inexpensive, and will be worth around 5-10whp and be more resilient during multiple pulls.

Ecoboost Tech: Are throttle closures bad?

A question we get asked a lot in the Ecoboost community is: Are throttle closures at WOT bad? Well, let’s delve a little deeper and see what throttle closures really mean. We’ll first need to dive into a little bit of background knowledge on how the Ecoboost throttle is controlled.Ecoboost throttle and boost datalog

The first important thing to grasp is the concept of Load. Load as defined by Ford is a representation of how much air is filling the cylinder per intake event compared to an ideal amount of air that would fill it at 100*F air temperature and 200*F engine coolant temperature. A load of 1.0 represents that the cylinder has filled with this ideal amount (or in Ford terms “standard”) of air. A load of 2.0 would thus represent twice that amount of air. Another way to think of load is that it represents engine torque output.

By controlling load, we control the amount of air in the cylinder, which directly controls how much fuel we need (for a set AFR), and ultimately the torque the engine produces.

The ECU takes a torque request from the accelerator pedal, applies torque, fueling, and over-temperature limits to it, and ultimately converts that final torque request into a load. These limits can be vital to engine safety and thus the ECU is keen to sticking to its desired loads. This Desired Load is then further converted into a desired air mass.

This air mass then gets worked backwards through a volumetric efficiency model to FINALLY give us a desired manifold absolute pressure (MAP). This pressure can be below atmospheric (vacuum) or above (boost).

So, we have a desired MAP, but most of us know that Ecoboosts have at least two sensors in the intake tract that measure pressure, one in the manifold (measuring MAP), and one pre-throttle (known as the Throttle Inlet Pressure or TIP sensor).

MAP and TIP Sensor Ford Ecoboost

Theoretically, if the throttle wasn’t a restriction, MAP and TIP should be equal at steady state, but with a throttle in the way, even fully open, there’s a slight pressure drop across the throttle. To solve this issue, Ford actually sets a desired TIP value that is slightly above desired MAP. That way if they try to reach a set TIP pressure, they will simultaneously hit their Desired pressure target.

The throttle plate is opened and closed electronically so that whatever TIP you currently have can be adjusted to your desired MAP. At part throttle, TIP is typically atmospheric since there is no vacuum before the throttle plate, so the throttle remains mostly closed to keep your MAP low. At WOT, you will mainly see a throttle plate that is wide open (about 82% on a COBB AP datalog). The throttle plate moves to make sure we hit our desired pressures and loads/torque as set by the calibration/tune. But wait, there is more!

On turbocharged vehicles under high loads the turbocharger is used to pressurize the intake tract to achieve the desired torque we were shooting for. The turbocharger speed and air delivery is controlled by the wastegate, which also receives its inputs from Desired TIP and Desired Airflow. If the throttle is held wide open, it is only up to the wastegate to control how much pressure and airflow we have under boost.

Internal Wastegate

So why then, would we ever want to see a throttle closure at WOT? Typically if you see throttle plate closures under WOT it means your TIP Actual / Airflow Actual ended up higher than what the ECU is asking for. Thus the ECU has to close the throttle to prevent the manifold from getting too much air. As mentioned previously, we may be limiting this for safety, to make sure we have enough fuel, or maybe we even had a component failure (like a wastegate line popping off!) and need the throttle to shut to save us from a costly mistake.

But, that’s not the only case – there is actually a performance benefit to closing the throttle at times and controlling airflow via BOTH the wastegate and throttle. A turbocharger is a mechanical machine that does NOT have instantaneous response. It has an inertia and it takes time to get it to spin up and start compressing air. One of the big things you see discussed is turbo lag or how long it takes to spool. Because we have both the wastegate AND the throttle controlling airflow, we could theoretically pre-spool the turbo a little more than we need at the moment, and use the throttle as a restriction to hold back that extra pressure from the manifold. This has the effect of moving us straight up on a compressor map. We have higher pressure, but the same airflow. The net result is that when we now request the power, we’ve already built up some turbocharger rotational energy and don’t need to spend time building it up! That means a faster response when stepping and requesting that oh-so-sweet turbo induced torque!

Load Control

Cut that turbo off! We don’t want more load than we can handle!

This tuning strategy however should not be abused. Keeping the wastegate shut increases pre-turbine pressure, decreases volumetric efficiency, and hurts your fuel economy, so we don’t always want to keep it shut. Like wise, pre-spooling the turbo too much can cause compressor surge. To address this, the ECU controls TIP separate of MAP, which sets a boundary of how much higher we want TIP to be over MAP. As well, the surge line is stored in the ECU and if TIP rises beyond that point, the electronic bypass valve (BPV) can intervene preventing surge. Using this,we can set TIP targets higher in conditions we expect to need acceleration, maximizing performance. This can be a big benefit especially on a road course where you may be part throttle around a sweeper, and once you’re lined up on the straight you can gun it and have a head start on the other cars that take a little longer to spool because they weren’t pre-spooled. However if you see throttle staying consistently at 20-30% for the entire pull, you’re likely dealing with a mechanical or tune issue.

In summary using the throttle smartly when tuning can result in the fastest possible boost response during transient throttle applications while also making sure that boost stays on target. With proper tuning of the system, the wastegate and throttle both allow you to create fast spooling yet smooth and controlled boost. This can be seen on the dyno (or VDyno if you have a clean one without wheelspin!), with nice smooth torque curves lacking any overshoot typical of a poor implementation of mixing throttle and wastegate.

Net result of throttle and wastegate combined: Nice flat torque without overshoot.

So now hopefully it’s clear that having throttle closures isn’t necessarily bad. Quite the opposite – relying on just keeping the throttle open the whole time and using the wastegate only is a step backwards and leaves performance on the table.